Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life

“Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life. The extremely good stuff – chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes – fills a minute portion of an adult lifespan.
The rest of life is the paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying.” ― Jaimal Yogis, Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea